VogueParisMay2017VittoriaCerettibyMarioTestino1492121315compressed.jpg' alt='Vogue Paris Collections Pdf File' title='Vogue Paris Collections Pdf File' />Sem illustrateur Wikipdia. Georges Goursat dit Sem, n le 2. YYl8mlt.sized.jpg' alt='Vogue Paris Collections Pdf File' title='Vogue Paris Collections Pdf File' />Prigueux et mort le 2. Paris, est un illustrateur, affichiste, caricaturiste, chroniqueur mondain, et crivainfranais. Toute sa vie, Sem a donn des rponses graphiques des situations de communication diverses, qui vont de la presse la publicit en passant par la cration dalbums qui seront sa marque de fabrique. Il accompagne la mutation des supports au tournant du sicle, renouvelant la vie des images, crant et usant de nouvelles pratiques, multipliant les supports dimages comme la publicit sur le lieu de vente. Dans un apptit de cration qui ne sembarrasse pas des frontires arts appliqus arts plastiques, il contribue la monte de nouveaux usages, accompagnant les dbuts de ce qui deviendra la communication visuelle. De ce point de vue, il appartient entirement son poque, qui tente en ce dbut de sicle de faire une synthse des arts et de faire communiquer industrie et expression artistique. Sem devient parisien en 1. Georges Goursat est devenu Sem, en hommage Amde de No dit Cham dont il admire luvre. Sil sloigne de la tradition satirique et du matre Cham, cest pour un traitement original de la caricature, mi chemin entre portrait in situ et portrait charge. Sem en 1914. Naissance 23 novembre 1863 Prigueux Dcs 26 novembre 1934 71 ans Paris Nationalit Franais Activits Affichiste, peintre, caricaturiste. JacquesLouis David nat Paris le 30 aot 1748 au 2 quai de la Mgisserie, dans une famille de la petite bourgeoisie. Son pre, LouisMaurice David, est. Une reprsentation synthtique trs lisible  aplats de couleur cerns de noir, utilisation de fonds colors avec personnage en premier plan, forment un vocabulaire efficace et esthtique. Aplats de couleur et traits de contour nerveux vont remplacer peu peu les personnages lilliputiens tte gante, hrits de la tradition caricaturale. Vogue Paris Collections Pdf File' title='Vogue Paris Collections Pdf File' />La presse est un passage oblig de tous les dessinateurs. Aprs Prigueux, sa ville natale, Bordeaux et Marseille, o il a su montrer les figures locales, femmes et hommes depeu, travailleurs des rues, messieursdubarreau, en revue dans les journaux locaux, Sem se confronte la vie parisienne, Maxims, Longchamp. Hippodrome de Longchamp, Autodidacte, cest son succs auprs des lecteurs de la presse locale et lengouement des albums bordelais qui lui donnent lgitimit pour poursuivre son chemin. Il profite de lge dor de la caricature, et trouve dans le dessin des silhouettes, lobjet de son travail. Il apportera la caricature la caution esthtique du genre quon a pu dfinir comme un artsansart. La presse parisienne accueillera ses dessins avec intrt. Ils trouveront cho chez un public friand dimages, de portraits de personnalits. Au printemps 1. 90. Sem arrive en pleine exposition universelle. Paris entend faire la dmonstration de sa puissance, la veille de la Premire guerre Mondiale. Lexposition coloniale, vitrine dune France riche dun large empire et dune industrie florissante qui sait contribuer lessor des arts, occupe tous les Parisiens. Sem va embarquer dans cette effervescence, et contribuer forger les mythes du dbut du XXe sicle  foi en la modernit et aux conqutes du progrs. Cest avec lalbum Le Turf quil va conqurir Paris. Le monde des courses donne Sem son passeport pour la vie mondaine, le champ dobservation de toute sa production. Scne lhtel de Paris par Sem. De 1. 90. 0 1. 91. Sem. Sem suit la socit riche et mondaine dans ses territoires  il va produire en quelques mois la galerie de portraits qui fournit ses modles Proust, Sacha Guitry ou Jules Renard. Psx Emulator For Windows 7 64 Bit Free Download. En janvier 1. 90. Instantan, supplment illustr de la Revue Hebdomadaire prsente une photo sur laquelle le petit homme dj grand se tient au ct du grand Chaliapine, qui le domine dune tte, un bras pass autour de ses paules. Son premier album, pourtant objet ditorial singulier, va le propulser au premier plan de la scne mondaine. Il y trouvera le support de son travail, sa clientle et ses amis, de manire paradoxale. Mio Europe Map. Cette socit insouciante le conduit dans tous les lieux la mode, cafs et thtres parisiens, plages Deauville, casino Monte Carlo. Les albums, tirs un trs petit nombre dexemplaires, de cent cinq cents, sont vendus par limprimeur. En 1. 90. 9  le succs de Sem est tabli Paris, il organise rue Royale avec Auguste Roubille un diorama, installation trs en vogue au dbut du sicle. Des silhouettes anonymes dcoupes en contreplaqu, animaux, chevaux, voitures atteles forment un dfil en route pour les courses. Clemenceau dans les tranches par Sem. Correspondant de guerre pour Le. Journal, ses crits rassembls dans Unpkinsurlefront, auront la navet de ton du hros de Stendhal Waterloo, et lmotion sincre qui surprendra une socit qui envoie ses hommes au champ de bataille, comme au dernier spectacle la mode. Les illustrations qui accompagnent ces textes reviennent un dessin classique, trait au fusain et crayon rehauss daquarelle. Sem ne verra du front que ce que la Grande. Muette veut lui laisser voir  cependant, le spectacle des hommes et des btes malmenes lmeut. On pourra lui reprocher son manque de vigueur dnoncer les conditions de vie des tranches, quand des artistes engags dans la guerre critiquent violemment la boucherie de 1. Mais le crayon de Sem se met au service dune motion sincre palpable encore aujourdhui. En 1. 91. 8, il donnera 6. Bolo Pacha. White Bottoms, le dernier album de Sem. Au lendemain de la guerre, Sem va reprendre ses carnets et observer une socit en mutation  la voiture a remplac les chevaux, les robes des femmes et les tenues des hommes ont chang, le jazz, le tango font irruption dans un Paris qui cherche redevenir capitale des plaisirs, tournant le dos aux horreurs de la guerre. La fe lectricit change la vie des Parisiens. De nouvelles figures occupent la scne, industriels, sportifs. Sem en rend comte dans les albums intituls Le Nouveau Monde  paralllement, il publie La Ronde de nuit. Les centres de la vie artistique se dplacent vers Montparnasse et Montmartre. Sem se fait moins prsent, sur la scne artistique. Cependant sa participation au salon de lAraigne anim par Gus Bofa, le rattache une communaut de jeunes artistes de retour du front, qui formeront lavant garde europenne. Sem y sera expos plusieurs reprises confirmant quil compte encore parmi les artistes de son poque. En 1. 92. 7, Sem publie son dernier album, White Bottoms. Sur la fin de sa vie, il multipliera les voyages en Angleterre. Il aura livr une trentaine dalbums, composant la saga dun milieu qui laura adopt, mais dont il a su rester distance. Il mourra en 1. 93. On dcouvre aujourdhui, sous la figure fixe de caricaturiste mondain qua t Sem, un remarquable artiste, mme si Sem ne prtendait ni tre caricaturiste, ni artiste. Proche des  artisan artistes  anglais, qui assument la conception et la fabrication de leurs ouvrages, Sem suit attentivement la fabrication des albums. Cocteau disait   Cest beau comme toute uvre o se joignent labeur et spontanit. Ce sont les caractristiques du travail de Sem. Lapparente facilit de son trac est dmentie par lobservation de ses calques ou des tudes, dont les repentirs rvlent les reprises. Il a fallu lil acr de lartiste pour oprer des slections rigoureuses avant les tirages dfinitifs. Le mme soin est apport la ralisation des albums  il travaille avec des artisans esthtes, il achte lui mme le papier, pour des raisons conomiques dune part, mais galement esthtiques. The Maison Martin Margiela Reference Guide. Believe it or not we have reached our 2. Third Looks. A heartfelt thank you goes out to everyone who has contributed, supported or simply enjoyed this blog since its humble beginnings over a year ago. I couldnt think of a better way to commemorate this milestone than presenting this comprehensive Maison Martin Margiela Reference Guide. Please enjoy this hefty reference guide on all things Maison Martin Margiela. The Maison Martin Margiela Reference Guide. Information about Martin Margiela, and Maison Martin Margiela, is everywhere, but a proper reference does not exist. With respect to Martin Margielas clear wishes to remain anonymous, and his continued silence after his retirement, I have omitted most personal information about him. This is a long read meant as a reference, not an article. If you are coming in totally blind, feel free to read the following short articles to get oriented Background A summary from a Margiela expert. Background Vogue UK, a brief timeline. CultureMarketing Cult of Invisibility Part 1 and Part 2. Click through the jump for the Reference Guide. Table of Contents. Current Status. Owner Only the Brave Holding company of Renzo Rosso, DieselDesigner, Ready to Wear MMM Design Team. Designer. CoutureArtisanal Matthieu Blazy. Namesake Retired, 2. Official Sites. Timeline. Photo Credit Moss Online. Attends and graduates from Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. Graduation date disputed. Serves as Design Assistant for Jean Paul Gaultier Book1. Establishes Maison Martin Margiela with Belgian retailer Jenny Meirens under Neuf SAS similar to an American LLC and shows SS 1. Paris.   At this time it is only womenswear. Line 1 established. Martin Margiela awarded the first ever ANDAM Award. Replica line officially made a part of Line 1 is included in Line 1. Eventually becomes a part of Lines 4 and 1. Charity AIDS t shirt introduced for FW 1. Still in production. Ed. the post originally stated 2. We regret the error1. May The current label, with numbers 0 2. Previously, only a plain white, unmarked label was used. Oct Line 6 womens diffusion line. Martin Margiela serves as Artistic Director of Hermes womens collections. Appointed in Apr. FW 1. 99. 8. 2. 19. Mar Line 2. 2 a collection of shoes for women. Oct Line 1. 0 the mens equivalent of Line 1, introduced for SS 1. Oct Line 1. 3 objects and publications. Apr Line 1. 5 collaboration line with mail order company 3 Suisses, short lived. Jul MMMNeuf SAS sells its majority stake to Only the Brave, an Italian holding company owned by Diesel founderPresident Renzo Rosso. Oct Line 4 a wardrobe for women, introduced for SS 2. Jun Line 6, womens diffusion, rebranded to mm. Jul Line 1. 4 a wardrobe for men, introduced for SS 2. Jan Line 1. 1 a collection of accessories for women and men. Jan Line 2. 2 a collection of shoes for women and men officially introduced for FW 2. Previously, small selections of footwear were released with Lines 1 and 1. Jan MMM becomes a Correspondent Member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. May MMM presents its Haute Couture show during SS 2. Artisanal Line 0 pieces. Oct Line 8 eyewear collection. Anniversary celebrations for MMM take place. Sartorial Collection, a capsule collection in Line 1. FW 2. 00. 89. 2. Mar Line 1 separated from Dfil runway and given separate tags. Jul Line 1. 2 a collection of fine jewelry. Oct 3 Renzo Rosso states that Martin Margiela has not been there for a long time. Dec 9 MMM officially confirms that Martin Margiela left MMM and the current design team would take over artistic direction rather than hiring a new head designer. Jan Line 3 fragrances, with unisex Fragrance Untitled. Oct E Boutique Launches. Jun 1. 2 H M x MMM confirmed. Nov 1. 9 H M x MMM launchesUnless otherwise noted, all information was obtained from the official Margiela timeline and glossary available on the official Maison Martin Margiela Facebook and the 2. Anniversary Monograph. Lines. Photo Credit MMM Official Facebook. Artisanal collection for women men Est 1. Its concept was and still is to reconstruct new garments by using other garments or accessories, used or new It is all about giving a new life to old and abandoned pieces, so they could be worn again in a different way. Artisanal pieces exemplify the MMM legacy of deconstruction, referencing fashion history, and the documenting the passage of time. Garments are given an explanation card which lists Collection, Reference with ref. Description, Colours, Number Created amount, Sizes, and Hours Spent Over Its Realisation. Mens Artisanal items are marked with the 0 and 1. After MMM became a Correspondent Member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Jan 2. MMM showed its first haute couture collection in May 2. Artisanal Line, which it continues to do. See also, Replica Line. For more information on the Artisanal Line and the themes it touches upon, see the section Conceptual Hallmarks and Themes below. Dfil Runway, or, literally show collection for women Est. March.   The original and primary collection of womens ready to wear by Maison Martin Margiela debuted for SS 1. This collection has traditionally been the subject of the Maisons fashion shows and exhibitions. Given a plain white label free of any markings, the line was created by being separated from Line 1 when they had originally been two concepts under one Line. Essentially, Dfil was created to sell only runway, and Line 1 to sell more unusual or avant ready to wear retail pieces. The collection for women Est. Maison Martin Margiela expresses its love for concept, design and process, for creativity and the avant garde. The first commercially released as Line 1 and the collection was tagged with a plain white label free of any markings, which continued until 2. It was announced in March 2. Dfil  show pieces took the plain white label. Fragrance, in association with LOreals Luxury Products Division Mar 2. Jan 2. 01. 0 released. A wardrobe for women. Essentially womens wardrobe basics, though explained as a personal approach to dress, fixed on taste rather than on a seasonal approach to design, or a particular age group. Oct. SS 2. 00. 4. Womens diffusion line including clothes, shoes, and accessories. Est. Oct 1. 99. 7, Rebranded mm. Jun 2. 00. 4. 8 Eyewear collection Est. Oct 2. 00. 7 for SS 2. The collection for men, equivalent of womens Line 1 Est. Oct 1. 99. 8 for SS 1. A collection of accessories for women men bags, belts, small leather goods and a few items of jewelry. Jan 2. Fine jewelry collection made in collaboration with the Damiani group Jul 2. Objects publications Oct 1. A wardrobe for men, essentially mens yearly basics, equivalent of Line 4 Est. Jul 2. 00. 4 for SS 2. Mail order Est. April 1. A partnership with mail order company 3 Suisses in which garments were sold through their catalogue in France and Benelux. A collection of shoes for women and men FW 2. The Maison has had a small seasonal selection of womens and mens shoes as part of Line 1 and Line 1. AW 2. 00. 5 0. 6 was the first time the shoes, for men and women, were all grouped within one collection, with its own structure and development plan. Womens Mar. Mens Jan. Sartorial a capsule collection part of Line 1.